Mighty Fine
Fine dining doesn’t get more impressive than this …
Nestled in secluded hills just five minutes’ drive from Peebles, Cringletie is a country house hotel delivering something very special on the food front. Leading the way in the kitchen, and putting his own stamp on the dining offer at the 4-star restaurant, is Head Chef, Iain Gourlay.
“My mum and dad are really proud as I could have easily gone another way,” says Iain with a smile. Fortunately, the young “tearaway” discovered a love for cooking straight from school and hasn’t looked back, working everywhere from high-end hotels to cooking for the army. His trade has taken him from the Cotswolds to the Isle of Eriska, Torridon to the Isle of Man, but Iain has now found a place to put down some roots – and embrace his love for fine dining cooking. “It’s definitely my calling,” he says.
Which is good news for the Tweed Valley. With its influx of artisan producers and independent cafes and restaurants, the area has evolved into a foodie hotspot. “We’ve got great restaurants like Osso and Coltmans, but more and more places are opening up,” says Iain, positively. “Businesses like The Fat Batard are doing such fantastic things.”
And the effect is spreading. With more people tuned into what they’re eating, the standard of the food offer is constantly being pushed. “Watching MasterChef sets their appetite’s going,” Iain laughs.
Having one of the UK’s top 10 chefs cooking in the valley certainly raises the profile of the area for food-lovers. When we meet for coffee in Cringletie’s striking conservatory, Iain has just returned from London for the finals of the 2022 National Chef of the Year (NCOTY) competition. “To be able to compete with people from Michelin star backgrounds and go to the final with all these great chefs was such an honour,” he explains.
The competition was a chance for Iain to showcase his own creativity in the kitchen, but also to inspire other young chefs at home: “You’ve got someone in a little country house hotel in the Scottish Borders competing in the premier cooking competition in the country; it proves that if you really try hard, you can push for these things.”
Being a role model to chefs starting out in the industry is clearly something Iain is passionate about – by the time you read this, he’ll have played his part in judging a local cooking competition for students at Peebles High School. Iain knows as much as anyone that the job involves long hours and hard work, but his enthusiasm for the whole cooking process never waivers.
What also shines through is his love for the Tweed Valley. “You feel like you’re in another world here,” says the Erskine-born chef. “Many people bypass us to go to the Highlands, but this area is equally stunning.” Regularly walking in the hills at Cademuir, Venlaw and Glentress provides Iain with precious time in open space and amongst nature. “All the wildflowers are amazing up there,” he smiles.
So amazing, in fact, they managed to find their way into the dish that landed him a spot in this year’s NCOTY finals. “I did a slow-cooked short rib of Dexter beef with crispy oyster and oyster emulsion, pickled girolles, a mushroom tea and foraged wildflowers,” he says proudly. And the influence of local produce in his competition entries didn’t stop there. The main course venison from his finals dish came from Dougie McKenna at Tweed Valley Venison: “I used two species – sika and roe – to show the versatility of what we get around these parts.”
With produce from local suppliers, as well as Cringletie’s own walled garden, Iain and his four “superstar chefs” work hard to stay ahead of the game in the fine dining world. “We look at what a lot of people are doing and it’s important we try different things,” he explains.
But there’s someone in particular Iain is keen to catch the eye of. “We’re trying to get the attention of Michelin to come in,” he says, confidently. “I’m not saying we’ll get a Michelin star, but I’d love to be in the guide – that would be a real honour and is a huge goal.”
The way things are going for the head chef just now, it’s one that is surely within reach.
Further info
A short drive from Peebles and just 35 minutes from Edinburgh, Cringletie is an historic 28-acre estate with hotel and restaurant featuring 2 AA Rosette dining. The kitchen team are committed to keeping their food miles and waste to a minimum, using local suppliers and homegrown produce wherever possible.
Images: Iain Gourlay; Cringletie