Quality Stamp

 

The combination of a characterful building and a seriously impressive food and drink offer has seen Karen and Kenny Coltman’s eponymous restaurant in Peebles establish a loyal following.

Karen Coltman at home by the fireplace in the main restaurant

All aglow on a chilly mid-morning, one of Peebles’ most historic buildings is alive and buzzing. Originally built as the Caledonian Railway Company Hotel, this grand old building at one end of the High Street has, for the past 12 years, been home to Coltman’s Kitchen, Deli & Restaurant.

On the ground floor, the tinkle of bells above the door is almost constant as people come and go. Some tuck into fresh produce from the artisan deli while seated at the picture window; other diners head to the main restaurant at the back of the building, where the views extend over the Tweed to a glorious bowl of hills beyond.

Upstairs is busy too, with the scattered tables in what was once purely a cocktail bar now full of people enjoying tea, coffee and homemade pastries, their gaze over roof tops framed by centuries-old leaded windows.

Up a few more well-worn steps and the source of all this activity becomes clear. In the first-floor kitchen, head chef Kenny Coltman and his team are busy with orders and prepping for the evening’s service – the steam rising from a huge pot of stock that has been simmering gently for hours.

Simmering nicely … the kitchen team prepare for a busy evening’s service

Much has changed since Karen and Kenny first opened in Peebles, but much has also remained the same. “I think we’ve stayed true to our vision of what we wanted the place to be,” reflects Karen.

“We felt that Peebles could do with more of a city centre offering. When we moved here a lot of our friends were going to Edinburgh for a nice meal or a bar and we thought we could replicate that here.”

A splash of colour at the deli counter

And if anyone was equipped to realise such an ambition it was the Coltmans. Originally from Perth, Karen has worked front of house with such hospitality luminaries as Ken McCulloch (of 1 Devonshire Gardens and Malmaison fame), while Kenny – from just down the road in Innerleithen – has operated at the five-star end of dining all over the world, including the Balmoral in Edinburgh.

The pair actually met while opening the Leith Malmaison in the early 1990s and went on to run several establishments together as well as pursuing their own projects – including Karen branching into the world of cocktails at Petit Blanc, Raymond Blanc’s brasserie in Cheltenham. “That was the last big job I had before having babies and moving to Peebles!” she explains.

In the early years, Coltman’s featured just the restaurant and deli on the ground floor, but it soon became clear that they were missing a trick not utilising the whole of the building. The first floor was transformed into a stylish cocktail bar before, more recently, becoming a second eating area.

The classy cocktail bar is a welcome addition to Peebles’ night-time scene

What the couple didn’t realise at first was how people would use Coltman’s, initially imagining it simply as a place for a drink and the kind of ‘wow’ food that just wasn’t available in Peebles at the time.

“We soon learned that people wanted more of a destination for the whole evening, with pre-dinner drinks, food and then post-meal cocktails,” notes Karen. “It made the whole experience much more special.”

Today, Coltman’s has hit the sweet spot when it comes to its customer base, with an even split between locals and visitors. “We have some customers who come every day of the week but are also lucky that Peebles is a year-round tourism destination,” explains Karen.

This means that Coltman’s welcomes visitors from Edinburgh, the West Coast and across the north of England – especially the Newcastle area. “People come for all sorts – walking, independent shopping, mountain biking. We see them all here!”

People come for all sorts – walking, independent shopping, mountain biking. We see them all here!

Even during these straitened times, there is a feeling that people still need the luxuries in life, so there are no plans to go in a different direction. “Everyone has a special occasion, so there is still space for this kind of experience even in a downturn,” believes Karen.

And as 2022 winds down, the couple are already looking ahead to the New Year, with plans to make more of a sheltered, south-facing garden area that can accommodate up to 80 people.

“The garden was a bit of an experiment when we opened it a couple of years ago serving just a limited menu, but it has proved very popular,” says Karen. “It’s been a challenge for us given that the kitchen is actually three floors above, but the garden has its own little bar and serving hatch, so has great potential.

“Next year we’d like to extend the full menu to the garden and maybe weatherproof the area so that we can use it for longer. Everything has its place inside, but the garden is still a work in progress,” smiles Karen.

Further info

Foodie heaven in one of Peebles’ most historic buildings, Coltman’s Kitchen, Deli & Restaurant offers imaginative, freshly-prepared food wherever you choose to eat – with some pretty special views thrown in for good measure. It’s also perfectly located for exploring the town’s array of independent shops, as well as enjoying a host of fine walks and bike rides right from the door.

 
Lindsay Quayle