Seasonal Simplicity
John Duncan’s focus on simplicity and seasonality has inspired a menu at a cafe that is perfect for garden, and food lovers, alike.
It’s a cold, bright January lunchtime. Two woodburning stoves are aglow, there’s a reassuring waft of seasonal soup and toasted bread in the air and not an empty table to be seen at the Courtyard Café at Kailzie Gardens, near Peebles.
It’s only been a week since John and the team reopened from their winter hibernation – but they’ve clearly been missed. Perhaps it’s the return of their avocado toast with cherry tomatoes and poached egg drawing in this brunch/lunch crowd, or the comforting stovetop sourdough toasties. “We’re in Scotland, so we obviously like to indulge in some grilled bread with melted cheese and butter at this time of year,” laughs John.
Either way, the café’s winter menu is certainly hitting the mark and that’s chiefly down to John’s simple, seasonal approach to food. With a ready supply of onions and cavolo nero from the garden itself, plus yellow courgettes, beetroot, tomatoes and more later in the year, the menu is very much driven by what’s available locally – and what John has observed about his customers in nearly four years at the cooking helm.
Running the Courtyard Café has been a significant shift for the chef. Originally from Glasgow, John cut his teeth in bars and restaurants in Edinburgh, working up to area manager for a couple of small hospitality businesses. When the opportunity presented itself to embark on a completely new adventure with his partner Gill and her family, who had recently acquired the Kailzie Gardens estate, he didn’t look back.
“Historically this has always been a café or restaurant; the original idea was to stick with a café but raise the standards so it would be more like a restaurant,” explains John. “I think we’ve done that successfully.”
Judging by the numbers tucking into lunch, that would certainly seem to be the case. The café enjoys excellent repeat custom from locals who support throughout the year and, as expected, it “works hand in hand with the garden” through the summer months as Kailzie sees its visitor numbers swell.
The volume increase in the summer places different demands on John and his kitchen staff, with changes to the seasonal menu reflecting the need to work twice as quickly behind the scenes. It’s a great time of year for hearty quiches and salads, John tells us, especially with the excellent fresh produce on hand courtesy of the garden team.
But for now, the pace can be a little slower. Which is perfect for the cosy, winter months. Sundays are traditionally the café’s busiest day, especially for big, multi-generational family lunches, so expect a few adventurous specials on the board over the weekend – and a wonderful selection of wines, spirits and locally brewed beer behind the counter.
“Being in the country means your visitors need to drive here so we need to be a destination, especially in the winter.”
And for something extra special, John is excited about his upcoming Cosy French Classics evening at the café on Valentine’s Day (14 Feb). Featuring a four-course tasting menu including sumptuous beef Bourguignon and “a bouillabaisse packed with local seafood” – plus matched wines expertly chosen by Edinburgh Local Wine School – it promises to be a delightful evening.
“Being in the country means your visitors need to drive here so we need to be a destination, especially in the winter,” remarks John as we finish up our chat.
Given the café’s gorgeous location and John’s commitment to restaurant standard dining and local producers, including The Fat Batard Bakery and Tempest Brewing, it’s already a year-round destination to envy.
Further info:
The Courtyard Café is part of the wider Kailzie Gardens estate which occupies a beautiful riverside location just outside Peebles. Featuring colour and interest throughout the seasons, along with many specimen trees, the estate is also home to Kailzie Fishery and the wonderful Kailzie Big Lodge – a stylish bunkhouse ideal for outdoorsy types, school groups and more.